China
China, the most populated country in the world. It is also home to nine of the ten most polluted cities in the world and industralising further at an alarming rate.
It just recently started on creating the largest dam in existense along the Yangtze river. When completed it would flood much of the upper valley, displacing thousands
of people, destroying whole cities and submerging the famous three gorges (or san-sha daba) - This is the reason why I had to come
to China, to see the gorges before they were submerged.
I landed in Shanghai and almost didn't make it through immigration as after studying my passport very carefully with a magnifying glass
they took it away for some thorough interrogation. Meanwhile I was left to stand on the side and got many a dirty look ("innocent until proven guilty, guys!").
After 15-20 minutes the passport was returned in one peice and I was allowed to enter their country.
I got hastled by a taxi driver who demanded 800 Yuan for a ride into the city, then offered me the
Chinese price of 80 Yuan. I declined
and found a bus for 4 Yuan.
I stayed in Shanghai for a few days where I met Samji who was studying Kung-Fu in China. Whilst he went in search for a monastary to train in I ventured westwards, by train, to Nanjing - a historical city with a bloody past.
After the fall of Nanjing to the Japanese during the second world war, reports say that 200,000 civilians were massacred.
I jumped on a people transport boat from Nanjing to Wuhan. Foreigners are automatically sold second/first class tickets even if you ask for the cheapest ticket. However on boarding this particular rust-ladened boat I was shown into the bottom deck which
particularly felt like a mass transport boat. The dorm style cabins consisted of two rows of bunk beds separated with an aisle that spanned the width of the ship. The mattreses on the hard wooden beds consisted of a bamboo mat offering nothing more than the gesture of comfort.
In the searing heat the cabins became ovens and people lay the days away spitting sunflower seeds' husks onto the single aisle. The toilets were even worse, consisting of the traditional ditch to squat beside, with the stench of a thousand shits permeating through every single molecule of air.
After two days one of the ships crew realised I wasn't Chinese and thus a foreigner. He ushered me to collect my belongings before relocating me to second class on the upper decks, which was invitingly comfortable but non-descript.
Upon reaching Wuhan to continue by boat would be to take a tourist boat as the main attraction is the three gorges that I had gone to see. The tourist boat was full of middle-class chinese and the occasional foreigner. The three gorges and the little
three gorges were spectacular but I suppose the most memorable part of this journey was being ushered onto a private balcony under the starlight and propositioned into marrying a neice of my Chinese cabin-mates.
The boat journey ends in Chongqing and having had enough of boats I decided to take the bus to Chengdu. In Chengdu I heard from Samji who was training Kung-Fu in a monastary just outside Dali in Yunnan province.
So I headed to Dali to see this monastary. I stayed in town but spent everyday at the monastary eating with the master and watching the training.
Finally it was time to get to Beijing for my flight home. Not fancying three days on a train I opted for a flight which gave me a few days to spare in Beijing. I took this opportunity to mount a two day trip onto a part of the 'wild' great wall of china, sleeping on the wall itself with the
scorpions and foliage.
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